Where water meets it’s fate and humans fight for selfies: Iguazu

Iguacu:

There is a reason locals either love or loathe tourism in this region - but is it really a winner here in Iguazú?

The short hop from the airport in Argentina takes you on a winding path through a road seemingly paved with wealth. Large American resorts and hotels come thick and fast and give this place a very fake ambience, akin to Disneyworld. There is nothing vaguely Argentinian or Brazilian about either city, Foz or Puerto. Local cultures have dissolved. The western world is king here.

Buses scoot between one resort and another. Various modes of transport are adorned with jungle animals and soft toys and ponchos hang out of every shop. Tourists are the life and soul of this place and it is only when you get in to the Parque de Iguazu that you fully appreciate why.

Set paths lead tourists deep into the jungle. Butterflies flutter from every branch and the sound of insects and fighting birds fill your ears, with the faint cry of the waterfall in the distance. The sunlight barely breaks the high canopy, but your eyes are drawn to the sky to admire playful monkeys and nesting birds. A-foot, watch your stepping for Coatis, eager to get a nibble of any snacks which may make an appearance from your pockets or your bag.

As the waterfall nears, the crowds thicken and the canopy diminishes. Open skies and the sound of the pounding water draw you ever closer to the falls themselves. As you approach the sides, words cannot express quite how stunning they are. A grand total of 280 waterfalls, depositing more than 30 million tonnes of water into the pools below.

The sheer power of the water will leave you mesmerized for hours, if only selfie sticks and jostling elbows were not part of modern society! The mist rises forming vivid rainbows as the water continues to flow ferociously through every weakness in the rock.

As you stand and watch, unable to follow single drops of water for the speed is to great, breath in the nature and admire as rainbows sore across one of the worlds geographical gems.

Rather hypocritical we know, yet visiting Iguazu does reinforce the impact humans are having on our planet. Tunnels of trees have been destroyed in order for roads to be placed inside the park, walkways and viewpoints have been stapled to the face of the falls - with the remnants of previous bridges and walkways now being lapped by passing water, as they litter the rivers below. Employees of the park are duty bound to follow tourists and pick up litter, which invariable compiles in the wake of daily visitors.

Native animals follow you, as though they are a dog at heel, so used to being fed by these visiting mammals. The tourist buses are on a constant rotation, with a large number of boats racing between each plunge pool in the deep gorge below.

It only takes a moment for one to step back and suddenly the human degradation of this area becomes so unbelievably apparent. The feeling of guilt becomes palpable as yet another helicopter floats over your head.

The balance is undoubtably tough. We, as much as any other human - able to experience a natural phenomenon as impressive as this - were keen to get as close as we could. We were grateful for the walkways. We were grateful for the buses taking us in. We were grateful for the restaurants providing food to fuel our walks. But - we think it is incredibly important that one thinks and is mindful of the impact we are inflicting. Failing to do this. Failure to act sustainably only has one outcome - future generations will surely be unable to immerse themselves in natural wonders of our world such as these. After all - one is already under threat not too far away...similar tourist attractions take place there too, no?

Our personal highlights and tips:

How to get there:

The bus terminal in Puerto Iguazu is central and offers services all over the country. Otherwise, the airports are close to the towns in both Foz (Brazil) and Puerto (Argentina). From the airport in Argentina - a tourist bus takes tourists directly to your hotel for 200 Pesos - a good option if you don’t mind having a scenic tour of every hotel in the area!

In Foz - the airport is accessible by bus (the 120) for 4 Real per person or an Uber is quick and costs 20 Real. Uber is a winner here - we used it to get into town from our hotel and it was super cheap.

When travelling to the park - many tour companies and taxis offer trips. A taxi costs 30 Real from Foz and the bus costs 4 Real - again the number 120. We took the bus and it was a great experience!

In Puerto we also took the bus. Air conditioned, comfortable and direct - you would be silly not to do this option, especially if you are travelling on a budget. It leaves every 20 minutes from the main bus terminal and cost 320 pesos.

Crossing the border:

Crossing the border between Argentina and Brazil is relatively hassle free. A local bus runs from the bus terminal in Puerto direct to Foz. However, if you are staying in Brazil you are obliged to get off the bus and get your passport stamped. The buses run once an hour which means you are somewhat stranded at the border until the next bus comes to collect you.

Once we stamped our passport - the bus was still a while away. Taxis are available at a cost - but so too are passing cars. We decided to have a little adventure, so stuck the thumb out and jumped into a locals car. Amazing what happens when you trust the good nature of people - we were dropped straight to our hotel and saved having to walk from the bus terminal! Tidy!

Where to Eat and Drink:

Ok, so you have probably worked out we love our ice cream - there are two must tries whilst you are in Iguazu. In Argentina - Helados opposite the bus station was amazing and incredibly cheap. The staff are super friendly and will let you try generous portions of flavors before you make your decision. In Foz - get yourself to Officina de Sorvette - a must try for any ice cream lovers. The flavors are aplenty and the desert offerings are second to none.

For dinner - in Foz we went to the sports bar. It had all the traditional Brazilian offerings and steaks are served on a sizzling hot plate. Mains ranged from 50-65 Real...a little pricey but worth it, especially if there is a local footie game on. The locals love it here!

For lunch we stopped at the Chascurria Gaucho close to the Paraguayan border. Don’t have breakfast and go here when you are really hungry. The meat keeps coming...and coming...and coming. Tender cuts of various parts of a cows body are sliced off skewers straight into your plate. The buffet is extensive and the desserts...if you still have space and exceptional. The total cost per person is 39 Real. Decent!

What to do:

Obviously, it goes without saying go to the Waterfalls. Get a glimpse of the falls from as many angles as you can, it really is worth it as the perspective is so different. In Argentina, the water falls elegantly and you get up close to lots of wildlife. The walks are longer and the trees are more diverse. You can get a little train through the park for free - although we opted to walk.

In Brazil - you get up close and personal to the devils throat which is really quite something. Bring your ponchos as you will almost certainly get wet. Don’t worry - you dry pretty quick. The bus will drop you off at the start of the trail and will meet you at the other end. If you can - i would stay on the bus and do the trail in reverse. You’ll probably find you have the trail to yourself and won’t be fighting with other visitors for the best photo spots, or queuing to get onto viewing platforms.

In the evening - make your way to the mark of the three borders between Paraguay, Argentina and Brazil. The sunset is sensational - as too is looking at a horizon which houses three distinct countries. There can’t be too many places in the world where this is possible. There are a few stalls here to buy souvenirs and the street food is well priced. On Wednesday’s at 7:30 there is a light show on the Argentinian side which is meant to be worth a watch.

If you have time - take a day to cross the border from Brazil to Paraguay. We were stunned by the drastic change in culture and atmosphere in a matter of meters. The market in Paraguay is busy and bustling and it feels almost like you have been teleported into an Asian market. Depending on exchange rates at the time - you can pick up some very cheap electronics. Go - it is a great experience.

Have fun!