That slither of Beauty where Argentina meets Bolivia

Salta Province

A colonial city in the middle of some of the worlds most ridiculous scenery, Salta is a must visit if you are in Argentina. Much like Dubai or Abu Dhabi, Salta could be viewed as a great point from which to travel to other parts of the world. From here, Cachi, Cafayate, Humuacha and Jujuy are all in reach within a few hours. But – why Salta can gain this comparison is that whilst you are in the city, albeit it briefly, it won’t disappoint for sights to visit, music to absorb and food to taste. 

With every potholed Street, one becomes more aware of their surroundings in northern Argentina. It is here that the people became more native, the food was served with less frills and the pride of the nation shone through flags, smiles and conversation. 

Bustling markets and populated plazas seemed to be the heart of this city. Dogs barked the trodden path and locals heckled their fruit offerings on street corners, whilst elderly residents earnt their space on park benches. 

If you want to explore unearthly landscapes and enjoy a wonderfully Argentinian city in the process – book that flight to Salta. You won’t be left asking why you went! 

Our personal experience and Top tips:

How to get around:

Cars rule here people. The beauty of this place is in the surrounding areas and you’ll want to get amongst it. Trust us. If you don’t – trust the number of car hire companies in the city centre! Buses are infrequent and won’t allow you to stop at your pleasure and explore untraveled roads and distant landscapes. Just suck up the cost and get into a car – it will be worth it – I promise. 

We rented a little Chevrolet from FitCar from the airport in Salta. A pretty banged up thing – but to be honest that’s how you want it. You’ll probably bring it back with a few scratches at the least. The roads up here are nothing to write home about and you’ll be bouncing along gravel roads within a few days of arriving. Just make sure you get as much insurance as you can – then when the inevitable rock clangs into your undercarriage you won’t be stressing – just embracing everything the ride has had to offer to the experience.

Be sure to download maps me – it won’t let you down – even in the areas with very poor signal. 

Where to eat:

In Salta – we ate at Jovis Dos – a beautiful little restaurant in the heart of town. The service is punctual and the food is fantastic. If you don’t look out the window, you could mistake the place for a Parisian cafe or restaurant. The waiters are dressed up to the hills and we enjoyed the freebies before the meal. Warm bread with sumptuously prepared vegetables. Small touches go along way people! 

If you have time to spare – don’t miss Cafe Convento. Superb little spot just off the main square. Their spread of cakes will leave you salivating and they taste even better when the come to the table. The coffees are traditional and the vibe in the cafe will make it hard to leave! 

Got another evening – head to Barcace Street where the bars are awash with local Pena music. Don’t be enticed by the street vendors – pulling you in at inflated prices – look for locals and any of the we fine bars will leave you feeling entertained for the whole night. 

Where to go from Salta? 

Day one – take the road to Cafayate. It will start pretty slow and you’ll question why you have chosen to drive on the wrong side of the road, with perilous potholes every few meters. However, stick with it. Soon the road will empty and the rock will redden. Your eyes will feast on some of the worlds finest scenery from towering rocks, to vast desert. Along the route – don’t miss the devils throat and the amphitheater – both super spots which will take your breath away. Make sure you take some water and a few snacks – the road took us about 4 hours – including stops – and there is very little on route! 

When you get to Cafayate – which you can’t help but love – make sure you stop for a tortilla on your way in. An old lady serves the best tortillas we ever had on the corner of the square. Just what you will need after the long ride over! 

Then we stayed at Rusty-K hostel – a gem of a place. It feels quirky and clean – with impeccable service! Make sure you get it booked up – you won’t find better! 

If you still have time / make sure you have time – head to Piatelli Vineyards – just out side Cafayete – a beautiful spot above the town. Ask for a bottle of their house rose and sit yourself on their terrace to watch the sun go down over the mountains. The rose is superb – the views even better! If you still have the urge to travel through more wine – I don’t blame you – we did, head to Chatos wine bar. His service, his knowledge and his English will make for an impressive evening drink. Black Toty restaurant will complete an outstanding day. Get 1/2 a Parilla between 2 and you’ll be left feeling very well fed! 

Day 2 – drive the back road from Cafayate to Cachi. Ok so the road isn’t paved and the drive will be a little uncomfortable – at least for the first hour before it becomes the norm! But the road and the assault on the bumper of your car is worth every scratch. The progressive terrain becomes almost like something you will see on the moon. The road twists and turns through varying undulation and extraordinary terrain. Some of the photos you get will leave even the most intrepid travel photographers asking questions.

When you arrive in Cachi – we stayed in an air BNB in Cachi Adentro called casa de campo – the perfect venue to rest and unwind after a tiring days drive. If you want some food – viracocha in town is the place. 

Day 3: head north towards Jujuy. You’ll pass the Ruta de TinTin – a straight road. Ok so that may be underselling it. The place is truly breathtaking and worth stopping to fully take it in. From there you will surge north over the mountains and through the national park of the cactus. The road is paved and great fun to drive – some of the stops are truly awesome. If you can stomach it with the twisting roads, be sure to pick up the tortilla at the summit. I have no idea what the herb is that is sprinkled over the cheese But damn it is tasty! 

Day 4: drive north to Permuraca and Humuacha. You’ll stumble across Purmuraca first. A quaint little village at the foot of the 7 coloured hill. The streets are dressed with colourful rugs and clothes ready to be snapped up by eager travellers. Locals offer warm epinadas for those wanting foods. Take some time here to enjoy meandering the narrow streets and snap some photos along the streets. 

From Purmuraca to Humuacha is a little town called Tilcara. A must stop for me. A beautiful mountain town nestled in the hills. Essentially, Tilcara is a long street with everything to make you feel at home for an evening or two. Cosy hostels, cute cafes and some bustling restaurants. You’ll find it hard to leave this little corner of the world. But when you do – the drive to Humuacha will remind you why you did. The road is unpaved and treaturous in places, but meanders its way to 4350 metres with a sensational view at every turn. At the top – especially good at sunset – take some time to enjoy the awesome sight of a 14 coloured mountain.