Samba, sand and sexy people: Rio de Janeiro

Rio de Janeiro:

In the city of Samba, sand and sexy people, where cocktails are sipped at any hour - anything goes. Local lads come alive as footballs are kept aloft in sparky games of footie on the Copocabana, whilst tourists are haggled and beckoned by salesmen looking to make a quick reais. Trains jitter to the tops of mountains to give their passengers unbeatable views, as cable cars fight with helicopters for the most audacious vistas. Everything, under the watchful eye of the Christ Redeemer.

Wherever you are in this great city - crosses hang in taxis or are tattooed on local shoulders. This, coupled with the towering redeemer act as pertinent reminders that this is very much a city of faith.

However, in many ways - the Redeemer is symblomatic of the ever present security which is required in this city. There is no escaping the abundance of security guards and gates. Wherever we stepped in the city, large condos reside behind locked gates, armed security guards roamed the shopping malls and police hugged tourist hot spots. It seems rather unnecessary as a tourist, moving through the tourist hotspots blissfully unaware? Or does it?

It is only when you meander between the mountains that you find yourself propelled into gritty favelas, where the average human earns £4 a week. Where chaotic buildings are slapped in innapropriate angles and places overlooking global businesses and flash hotels. Where electrical wires tangle like spaghetti. The juxtaposition and inequality is rife. Perhaps it is that which drives some to the point of destruction.

Step away from the hustle and bustle of this sprawling metropolis and you find yourself on the boarder of paradise. Sleek sand beaches hug miles of coastline, where waves crash onto barren beaches. Surfers slip and slide their way down towering waves and beachside kiosks are watering holes for the amassing spectators. Sporty folk use coastal paths as their running tracks and school kids get their surfing fix at night. Suddenly you see why Rio entices the masses.

When the sun sets, the moonlight brightens up this surfing paradise - surf photographers part ways for cool street food eateries. Locals tap to the latest beats in trendy Lapa bars, whilst the queues develop outside clubs. Men drag rattling trolleys, full of alcoholic offerings for those outside bars. Warehouses light up to the sound of beating drums. What a way to say goodnight to this great city.

For a city with it all - head to Rio!

Our personal highlights and tips:

How to get around:

We jumped in an Uber from the airport to downtown near Copacabana. The Uber cost 15 Reais. Getting around town is super easy and super cheap using Uber - we felt really safe and when you get to Rio you will soon realise this is a city which is not very walkable...highways fly through the centre and the roads move at a pace!

For cheaper options to get around town - the buses are 4 reais per person and there are extensive networks across the city. We were staying near the Rio Sul mall - so it was always easy to find our way back.

Alternatively - Rio is one of the most effectively designed cities for bikes. Huge cycleways have been built, separate from the road which make travelling by bike safe and easy...if you don’t mind the ridiculous hills in places! Check your route before you go!

What to do?

Rio is one of those places where you will probably find yourself enjoying a whole load of weird and wonderful things - but a few things we enjoyed doing are below.

Go and climb the steps at St Teresa - the area is super cool and the colorful steps make the climb up that little easier. Locals chill on the steps and play guitar and vendors sell drinks for you to enjoy on the way up. We loved exploring this area as well as climbing the steps! If you go here on a Sunday morning - be sure to give the fruit market some time. The fruit is a joke and the colours are incredible...some experience!

When you are here you are super close to the Lapa Arches - a historical site where protests against the Government still take place today. There is a great street market here at night and there are a number of bars and restaurants to keep you entertained especially on a Friday or Saturday night.

Obviously you need to go to the Redeemer. We went by tram but you can also get minivans to the top from Copocabana if you prefer, which are a little cheaper but wrestle with the traffic on their way up. You can also hike it but like many hikes in Brazil, we read bad press about muggings on the way up! The tram takes 20 minutes and the views on the way up are insane.

Make sure you sit on the right hand side of the train to ensure you get the full view. If you can’t do this on the way up - fear not - the way down is much less busy! As you pull through the jungle you will see everything that is so wonderful about this city. We went early in the morning to avoid the crowds - there were only two train loads of people at the top but it was still extremely busy...I would go early!!

Go to the Copocabana - you have to right! We went on a Saturday and it was one of the best days we had. Locals play beach football and you can watch with the thumping crowds or join in at certain places on the beach. Grab yourself a drink at one of the kiosks and let the water lap your feet! When you are done getting sandy - walk along the famous black and white strip and check out some of the local tat on offer! Some of the sand sculptures are amazing if nothing else!

When you have had enough of the bustle - we recommend spending a few days at Recreio or Bahaia. About 50 minutes south of Ipanema and £29 in an Uber - this place is super chilled and will leave you asking yourself why you didn’t come here sooner. White sand beaches spread for miles and huge waves offer the ideal site for surfers. Luxury hotels and apartments hug the coast and Airbnb’s are frequent here.

If you go to Recreio - our favourite beach was Macumba but there are a number of beaches in close proximity. All within walking distance! You can hire surf boards and take a lesson at Posto 12 - the large rock in the middle of Macumba beach. The waves are slightly easier for beginners at the edge of the beaches! Fair play if you are riding the waves in the middle..they are mega! Once your day is done - make sure you grab a drink at one of the kiosks along the front. Sunset is a dream from here!

Make sure you hike Telegraphono whilst in Recreio. The hike takes 40 minutes up and if you put Pedra de Telgraphono into Uber the driver will take you to the start of the trail. The drive up is a little sketchy with extreme gradients. We jumped out as soon as the wheels lost traction and the clutch gave way...all adds to the early morning tale though! The top gets busy so leave early. We started the hike at 0800 and there were already a few people at the top! Avoid the queues people - leave early. The beach at the bottom is spectacular and your legs will be screaming out for a little dip so make sure you leave enough time to soak in the sea before the return home.

Where to eat and drink:

Head to the night market at Lapa for a cheap feed. There is a variety of cool offerings here from Asian to local fries, rice, beans and meat dishes. We opted for the Asian affair and were not disappointed. Meals will cost you around 10/15 reais and you can pick up a little cocktail for 10 whilst you are at it! Loads of stores offer drinks for passers by - just choose one that tickles your fancy - they all offer the same stuff!

After a long day surfing in Recreio a visit to Aloha Food Truck, at the junction with the market, for some sushi is a must. Their hot sushi and Yakisoba dish was unreal. Don’t be feeling guilty if you go back for seconds - we did. Not only is the food great here - we loved the guys in the truck - super friendly and with a real passion for what they did.

For one of the best meals and food experiences, head to Rio Sul Recreio - for 50 reais gorge your way through every cut of meat thinkable, some great salads and sides as well as sushi!! The meat comes thick and fast and is all great quality and the salads are beautifully presented. If you have room, their desert trolley is off the charts!

In downtown Rio - the shopping mall Inconveniently also called Rio Sul has a host of great restaurants - check out the ice cream from the small white car parked up inside. The Belgian chocolate flavor was superb!

For drinks head to Lapa and immerse yourself in the culture. There are loads of bars here and all offer much the same vibe. You have to pay 10 reais to get into some - depends what sort of night your after. Either way - you won’t leave here until you have partied long into the night.