To some a word scribbled on the front of Superdry T-shirts. To others, Osaka remains one of Japan’s most vibrant urban sprawls. Neighbouring the Kobe region, Osaka is a popular destination on any Japan tour. We were fortunate to see why.
Now causing like locals on the extensive Japanese rail network - exiting Shin-Osaka main station was a little sharper than our initial experience in Tokyo. Walking with purpose, we seemed to cover a far greater distance traversing the station itself than on the road to the hotel. Such is the vast nature of Shin-Osaka station. The multiple escalators, stairs and tight barriers made our base camp duffels the perfect mode of storage. The Japanese seem to be obsessed with metallic wheelie bags. Cool as they are, it seems their practicalities come into question when navigating the Japanese rail system's love of multi level stations. I could see people looking at me as I strolled though, thinking - I wish I was that lad!
A few hundred meters away - our hotel. New and throwing out ridiculous start up deals the Karaska tower proved to be an absolute touch. New and spacious rooms, with awesome views of the city were coupled with the luxurious onsen baths downstairs. A welcome drinks canteen was an added bonus - providing us with a number of self-service lattes. Whilst the invite was extended to enjoy a drink of our choice, we made sure we tried each of the machines offerings to get our monies worth. Can’t pass up on freebies see!
Checking in early we headed straight into the depths of Osaka. The Castle our first stop, making a brief diversion to Gout - a bakery - for lunch. The castle stands as an anomaly amongst modern buildings - a throwback to old Japan. The moat runs around it’s perimeter, the ancient temple like thing standing proudly atop the island. A good spot for a picnic - benches galore and decent views. What makes it all the more appealing is the joy which follows when watching fellow visitors pose against the rails, pulling ridiculous gestures and postures to secure the perfect snap.
From here, a short walk had us headed downtown, more precisely the Shinshabasia area. Think of a slot machine and then imagine that being reconstructed architecturally. More flashing lights than an airport runway and more hanging characatures than a disney shop. This was a feast for the senses - albeit a little too much to take in at times. The bright ambience is enhanced by the overwhelming hoards of people flowing along the street, waving inordinate amounts of shopping bags and a healthy number of selfie sticks. The usual bizarre food offerings are churned out with alarming regularity and the usual tat makes its way into peoples bags. All this takes place in the wake of offensively loud music - rhythmically questionable and with next to no one actually tuning in.
A brief pause from the chaos comes when crossing the river - pretty views amidst consumerism madness. Whatever the weather - this place will be bright, energetic and exciting - captivating passers by with the magical colours, electric advertising boards - juxtaposed with the calm waters flowing beneath.
The next stop on the walking tour was the America-Mura region. Retro, vintage and caked in wall art - this is Osaka’s shoreditch. Clothes from the 90s hang from the porches or shops as trendy folk seek out their next bargain. We were destined for the Brooklyn Roastery only to have followed the wrong address on the map. In any case - this lively quarter of the city demonstrated Osaka’s appeal to the young, hip and trendy.
At night and it was the Dorombori area which had us salivating at more weird and wonderful food offerings. Inside a shopping arcade, countless restaurants vye for your custom. As is clearly the norm in Japan - plates of dry food are positioned in the windows to show the treats in store. Suffice to say the majority of them look awfully poor - sticking food in a window for weeks on end is not the recipe for enticing hungry customers. Nonetheless, we found ourselves a little sushi belt and made ourselves comfy. Having become more daring - we went for more than the odd Californian roll. Crab salad and raw tuna added to the mix.
Whilst sat soaking in the smells and the unique nature of consuming food from a conveyor belt, one thing did strike me. The foundation of all the offerings, be it sushi, ramen or terriyaki: rice, fish, veg. As my eyes spanned the room - as well as observing passers by in the street - it is so clear why the Japanese are so slight, toned and healthy. They are what they stick in their bodies. Quite the contrast to the western world - daily stuffing in the burgers, fish and chips and KFC!
With one more day in the city, we headed to the old town. At the centre, the Shinsekai tower. They say it was based on the Eiffel Tower. Unless the architect was blind - this was a rather lacklustre replica! In any case - it stands above a cool part of town. Industrial estates give way to narrow market streets, which felt much more authentic than those we had visited elsewhere. Locals sold a handful of products at reduced rates, whilst clothes stores stocked knock off T-shirt’s, jumpers and coats - beneath yet more flashing banners. A half hour or so here is enough - but good to get a glimpse of what real Osaka is about.
On the way, a personal highlight was pulling into the Brooklyn Roastery Cafe. Situated under the arches of the railway, everything about this place was epic. The coffee was one of the best I think I have had the pleasure of enjoying and the atmosphere they created was super cool. Bikes rested against the counter as locals surfed their MacBooks for research, work or play. Long benches and high chairs provided ample space to chill, chat and sip. This place is a must if you are in town and are even vaguely into caffeine!
Albeit brief - Osaka was a great place to stop. Whilst no where near as clean and pristine as the other parts of Japan we visited - the vibe and energy is on a par with Tokyo. The bright lights resonate with my pre-conceptions of Asia’s major cities and the narrow market streets provided hours of entertainment. It has to be on your Japanese itinerary - even if for a matter of days. Shop, eat and soak up the Japanese ways of life.