A skiers heaven and any wakeboarders dream, Lake Taupo resides in the heartland of the North Island. With flat waters as wide as the eye can see, embanked by towering mountains, Taupo is a beautiful sight to absorb. The road winds in from the south side of the lake, with every business using the lake in whichever way feasibly possible. The winner for most entertaining - ‘Hole in One’. Put your golfing expertise to the test with this short range drive - the goal - land the little white ball on the island and sink your hole in one. Not only was this an awesome spectator sport, but they say that there is a job for everyone. They are not wrong it seems. Knee deep in the water and helmet on, a young lad, snorkelled up to the gills was frantically regaining balls from abysmal poor triers.
A strange story to commence with you may be thinking - but for me this epitomises what this place is about. The lake is at the forefront and everything goes from there. Taupo is the world’s largest active volcano, although you can’t see it, the crater lies under the lake. When it erupted, some years ago, it was the biggest eruption of all time - far outweighing the more well known Mt St Helens in the USA. The pyroclastic flows and debris which was extracted from the chamber wiped out everything in its path, with remnants of the ash reaching as far as Europe. Folk law has it that the Maori chief at the time survived this ordeal and the Lake represents his cape. However, given Maoris also believe that their bodies are returned to the earth after death - perhaps the lake is a key site of ancestral importance instead!
After a brief walk around the town, it was time to sample the local cafes. We headed to the warehouse styled cafe north of the centre. As the sun beamed down, we planned our activities to fit a tight schedule and enjoyed one of the best Flat Whites since arriving in New Zealand. Like many other cafes we have visited, but to another degree, this place oozed relaxed vibes and a sense that cafes are about more than sinking a cuppa. I quite like the atmosphere they have created - they dedicate time and passion to creating the drink and therefore have a level of expectation that you will sit, soak it in and enjoy it as you drink it. Tough to do in London, but a definite take back for our return.
A plan of action created and well defined, we headed for the lake front to get in some all important exercise. A short run had us running along the lake front path. As you plod past lakeside condos and beautiful hotels, the waves lapping up on the shore, you wouldn’t be silly for thinking you were running alongside the sea. Ducks lead their chicks to water as locals soak in the sun rays on the beach. Makeshift vans are alight with the sound of steaming milk and grinding beans. Circa 20 minutes in to the run, heading towards the watersportss cafe at 2 mile point, a small stream intersects the path. Steam rises from the water and a yellow sign stands proudly - informing onlookers of the dangers of boiling water. Hot water point marks the sight where geothermal waters enter the lake. This natural hot spring is enjoyed by locals, tourists and aquine life. Sadly for us, we scooted on past.
As we reached our end point and turned back, you can’t help but be moved by this incredible landscape. The blue waters of the lake are contrasted by the white capped peaks of the Tongariro volcanoes in the distance. Along the front, gardeners have been hard at work to preserve the beauty of this man made path - all helping to make this one of the best runs I have ever had. As we made our slow return to the pod, the shirt came off…unsurprising to some of you, the sun beaming down on the back. Sweat dripping off the head and endorphins flowing, you can’t help but smile. With the legs feeling a little wobbly and much in need of something more substantial than a rice cake, I was pleased to see the Pod come into view. Trainers off and only a short trip down the steps to the lake, we freshened up lakeside! We had earnt the little trip to Spa Thermal Park.
5 minutes outside of the town itself, tourists and locals alike flock to Spa Thermal Park. A sprawling green space, with the key attraction being the Waikato river, which weaves through the middle. The crystal clear waters are pretty awesome but, if you are a spa lover like me, you’ll soon be distracted by the natural hot spring which feeds the Waikato. A small tributary falls into the river here, with the waterfall creating natural pools for cheapskates like us to jump into, to save the cost of the local hot pools. Kick off the flip flops and jump in, let the waterfall pound your back and let your body be drowned in naturally warm water. Not a bad little spot - especially given it doesn’t cost a cent! I was surprised not to see more northerners in here to be honest!
From here it was time to head for a shower - small bits of algae and silt seem to stick to you in the hot pools. As has become part of our bi-daily routine, we headed for the local leisure centre. We were in for a surprise though - this place was on a different level to anything we had seen yet. Outdoor pools with bombing areas for kids, water slides and Tarzan swings. 2 25 metre pools for swimming and a few hot pools for chilling. I donned the goggles and set off for a few lengths - only for the lifeguard to give me some pointers. I guess, having dived into the pool with the stadium to the side, he probably thought more of me than I was capable of. The low point however came when the man pointed to Zoe and said “she’s good, you need some practise mate”. With the head held pretty low and the only male to be wearing baggy shorts, not speedos, I climbed out of the pool and headed back to where I belong, the kids pool full of activities.
Fresh and exhausted after a busy and active day in and around the Lake, we headed for the lakeside free camping area, just in time for sunset. In the morning, we rose early and stuck Rotarua into the GPS. A short hours ride north, you’ll certainly know you have arrived when you reach the bubbling, spitting and steaming destination of Rotarua. Just off the highway was Wai-O-Tapu - which claimed to be New Zealand’s most colourful geothermal park. Reluctantly, we stuck the entrance desk our dollars and headed off on the 4k walk around the highlights of the park. Let’s just say it was well worth every dollar. Beautifully kept walkways take you through steaming craters, bubbling mud pools, champagne lakes and incredibly coloured lakes. I have never seen anything like this in my life, not even in textbooks. This is the place to come, if you want to see what our planet is capable of!
As we began to acclimatise to the stench of sulphur, we set the wheels in motion again, destined for the Redwood forest. Adjacent to Rotarua town centre, this incredible place invites dog walkers, hikers and nature lovers to enjoy a peaceful space, demonstrating the enormity of nature. Huge American Redwood trees rise up into the skies, creating an eerie canopy layer. Their trunks, so wide that some measure a colossal 6 metres in circumference. Trails, like mazes, duck and dive between these towering beasts, the smell of cedar wood rife in the air.
We followed a well trodden path as the sun set in the distance, ocassioanly breaking through the cracks in the forest, piercing the shadowed forest with some light. Once the sun set, we followed lanterns in the upper canopy and enjoyed the light show cast by the parks authorities. This is a must if you are passing through…it is almost a travesty if you don’t stay a night here, just so that you can enjoy this evening stroll.
Having walked for a good few hours, we jumped back in the pod and headed for Kerosene Creek. Much lake Spa Thermal Park, but way less occupied, this natural hot spring was the perfect way to unwind. As we lay in the warm rapids, the spray from the falls cleansing the face, it was the perfect recipe to chill out. A quick drip dry and a new set of shorts - it was on to Rotarua town for the night. Pulled up by the lake, we toasted our bread and boiled the baked beans, before heading to Eat Street for a little ice cream desert.
There really is no where quite like Rotarua - a colourful, cultural and beautiful concoction - guaranteed to make you smile. Go there, before it blows again!