Jutting out to the east of Auckland, a peninsula rich of sea life, dressed in green vegetation and bordered with white sand beaches - the Coromandel was calling. As we headed East over the peninsula bridge, Maori carvings guard the crossing and welcome you into one of the coolest places on the North Island. On arrival, you enter into Thames. The swaying of masts and the car park full of boats on trailers - there is a marine, island style feeling to this place. As recommended by guide books and locals, we pulled in to the Wharf for a little take out fish and chips. Throwing in your order, you are joined by fishermen filling cool boxes of fresh bait. Squid being churned out by the kilo by a charming, fish expert! As I waited for order 101, the queue continued to grow in length. We had clearly come to the best spot in town.
When the paper wrapped package was delivered, dripping with grease and full of everything I probably shouldn’t be eating - we headed for the little pic Nic tables overlooking the marina to enjoy the feast, with a little accompanying Hot Choc. The fish was unreal, so fresh you could almost taste the sea in its meat. We polished it off in in quicktime, leaving no space for the local gulls to get a look in.
From here, the road took on new levels of excitement. Hugging the coastline, the spray from breaking waves was close enough to splash the pod. Boulders lay on the road side, helping to prop up the road as the view opened up across the channel to the mainland. After an hour or so, we headed across the peninsula on the less well travelled road. A gravel track twisted its way to the top of the hill before dropping us down to the eastern side of the peninsula. As waterfalls dripped off thick vegetation, the views from the summit were something to remember.
Once descended, it wasn’t long before we pulled up at Hot Water Beach. As the name suggests, this place does exactly what it says on the tin. Local establishments hire out spades by the hour and send tourists into the beach on a daily basis. As only humans would, on a huge beach covering nearly 1.5k, hundreds of people are gathered around a central point. Like penguins, we jostle for space - where the hot spring can be exploited. Dig down and water starts to come into the gap created, from the underwater source. But, unlike any normal beach, the water which rises in this exact spot is close to boiling. The more dedicated members of the human race continued to dig and mould until they had sculpted perfect hot tub like baths for themselves, whilst others, like us, just hopped in to one that had already been made. Having skimped on the hire charge for a spade, my hands were not capable of moving the sand quick enough and the temperature of the rising water is no joke!
Having sought out the best hot tub the beach had to offer, we were lying in a rather palatial kind of set up. Both of us, feet out and heads cocked back. The breaking waves a matter of metres in front of us. It wasn’t long before a family came to join us. A Californian couple, both tanned up to the ninth degree, ripped to shreds and the gent donning a Panerai on the wrist. Their kids, two little girls brimming with charisma and a little gent who could barely talk, but confident enough to strut about naked. We chatted to them, as we diced about in the pool - looking for the most agreeable temperature. Running his own online education company, he worked remotely and was home schooling his kids. They seemed to be loving life and getting it so right - as he said ‘these guys are young, we don’t want to miss a moment’ . As he filmed them, explaining why the beach was hot due to volcanic activity - they provided life goals for us - right there!
As sand began invading every orrofice of our shorts, bodies and bikinis, we decided it might be time to get out. I think, I had probably stared at the guy a little to much by now as well. The ripped body, the Panerai glistening in the sun and the unbelievably cool personality got me hooked early doors. We jumped out and headed for the Pod with many more beaches on the list of sites to tick off today.
Next up - Hahei Beach. With incredible white sands and calm waters, this place looked mega inviting. We parked up and got a salad in the mix, ready to enjoy whilst soaking up the local life and the view. Locals came by the dozen, parking up, jumping in and some arriving with little take outs to enjoy on the sand. Some lettuce, rocket, peppers and tomatoes finished, we went for a little hike to the famous Cathedral Cove. The scenic walk rises up through the bush to the top of the headland, giving you gorgeous views of Hahei Beach.
As you drop down the other side, passing Stingray Bay - the 30 minute walk seems to fly by. Every twist and turn proving sweeping views across the sea.
When we reached Cathedral Cove, we both looked at each other and said “wow!” We have been fortunate to travel to many parts of the world, including the Maldives, Thailand and Bali and beyond - but for us this was the best beach in the world. The walk must deter people from coming in their masses - albeit we were there close to sunset. The waters are dramatic, yet clear. The rockscape is so vivid, with towering cliffs and delicately chiselled caves. A vast archway ‘the cathedral’ provides an entrance to a neighbouring untouched piece of sand, backed by weeping palms and tall cliffs. We sat here and soaked it all in before walking back to the far side of the beach.
Like a gift that just keeps giving, this beach provided us with yet another incredible piece of nature. A natural shower powered off the top of the cliff, plunging to the beach below. Given we were one of about 4 people in the cove at the time, I though this was the perfect opportunity to whip off the clothes and soak myself, naked! A pretty liberating thing to have done. A memorable beach for us and for the other poor lads on the beach at the time who may have caught a distant glimpse of my pasty ass!
From Cathedral Cove we headed for Whitianga to park up for the night. A pit stop is all this place is good for really, the true beauty of the Coromandel lies in the beaches - not in the towns! Hence, in the morning, we made a quick exit and set off for New Chums Beach. An adventurous route sends you through a waist deep creek, before clambering over rocks and boulders to reach the entrance of the bush. Just offshore we were entertained by bombing seabirds hunting their brekkie, whilst we battled through the thick bush. A 45 minute hike is someway to start your day, but feels even more worth it when you arrive at New Chums. A huge beach, barren and desolate lies waiting. The surf here is something to write home about and the banana sweep to the beach welcomes speed walkers and runners alike. We threw the towel across the sand and allowed ourselves a little relaxation time, under the glowing sun. It was at this precise moment I thought how lucky we were to be experiencing such weather and amazing beaches given our family and friends are drowning in rain and wrapping up in coats. No-one, bar the calendar on the phone, would be able to tell Christmas is less than 5 weeks away. There are no light shows here, no playlists on the radio or commercial cons by retailers. It seems Christmas here is a little different. Get with some mates and family, enjoy time together - that is all that matters. IS this potentially lost at home, where the other stuff we hype up at home becomes the priority. Whatever it is, it is certainly a very different sight - Auckland to London!
With the key beaches ticked off and just a scenic drive back to the mainland left - it was back in the pod, armed with cameras to shoot out the window. In nearly three weeks - this has to be one of our favourite spots. What more can you ask for than gorgeous beaches, warm waters and a chilled out vibe?