Sinking into the deep seats, with more leg room than a BA business class flight, we were due our first ride on a Bullet. The pace quickened as we left Tokyo’s urban vernacular in our wake - buildings becoming blurs through the glass panes. In the distance, Mt Fuji glistened in the morning sun, whilst on board the conductor bowed for the twentieth time as he left the carriage. As the train tilts and glides - the speed is phenomenal.
Tranquil, calm and polar opposite to the hectic buzz of Tokyo, Kyoto welcomed us for a few days. The old capital of Japan, Kyoto, is steeped in cultural heritage and Japanese charm. Narrow streets lack the flow of vehicles, opting rather for the calm flow of bikes and the natter of local chatter. Lanterns hang from the rafters above floating fabric doors to Tea houses and Ramen eateries. The opportunity to get lost and explore this beautiful city is seemingly endless. Water ways and rivers provide unrivalled scenic walks through one of the worlds cleanest cities.
Big signs requested shoes were removed - in exchange for typically Japanese slippers. Three smiling Kyotans welcomed us to the K House Hostel - our vase from which to explore. Another cramped room, in a clean and comfy hostel. We seemed to have struck gold again with this little place - warm, friendly hosts, brekkie which was reasonably priced and bike hire on the doorstep, a stones throw away from Kyoto main station.
With our central location - our first day was spent exploring the central areas of Kyoto. Having researched the highs and lows of the city, Zoe was fully prepared for her walking tour. A grand total of 6 shrines and temples, interspersed with the odd park and shopping street - provided the route. As we walked from East to west, circumnavigating the entire city - we began to get a great feel for the city.
Stop one was the elegant Kiyomizu-dera temple. Bright orange and red pillars towered above the city. Intricate details were etched into the buildings facade - dragons, floral designs and symbols featuring very highly. As insence is burnt and locals clap their prayers, tourists pose in Kimonos for their perfect insta snap. This is well worth the visit - if only for the views. When your time here is up - the walk back down towards the town is an enjoyable one. Passing souvenir shops and strange food offerings - be sure to pick up one of the local pancakes. More like a Thai fish cake than a pancake - but worth the experience none the less!
The walk took a scenic turn as we contoured the rivers bank. Next up - you guessed - another shrine! It seems Kyoto is the worlds most populated temple land on the planet! That said - they are worth a butch. Chion-in was next on the menu - less imposing and brightly decorated but a good sight to see in any case. Steps led up to a wooden temple, where locals deposit their offerings. The tranquility of the place was beautiful - with nothing more than the sound of birdsong filling the ears.
We came expecting to find another brightly coloured temple but the best part of this beautiful place was the remnants of the old railway arches. Towering arches stood proudly - as tourists took advantage of the photogenic nature they oozed. Yet another picture perfect location in this Instagram worthy city!
Templed out and pushing 15 miles on the feet - Gion and the red light district was calling. The streets narrow and the population increases as you approach this river side district. Shops overflow into the streets and market like stalls call out for passers by to tuck into their Asian delicacies - whatever they are. Octopus eggs and squid balls stand out offerings! When the street vendors expire, the toad spits you out at the small canal. Cross it and you stumble into Poncho Alley. A tight strip of bars and restaurants - reminiscent of Venice - where high end cuisine and wine draw in Kyoto’s wealthy. A beautiful walk - especially at night, this is a must do if visiting. One block back, sandwiched by two water ways - the road widens and offers slightly more reasonably priced dining options.
Having salivated much of the walk along Poncho Alley we were grateful to find a sushi establishment offering outstanding value. As the plates of raw fish and Cali rolls wizzed past us - the real beauty was in watching the chefs throw together the finest rolls with such ease.
Day two sent us on a bus trip to the outskirts. Zoe keen to tick off every Temple this side of Bali it seems. However, as we pulled out of the bus station, headed for Arishyma - taking in local life became a little easier. The 35 minute trip littered with superb people watching and Japanese life effortlessly observed. On arrival, the bus stop overlooked a superb coffee joint called GoGo Coffee. A large varnished tree trunk dissected the centre of the room and acted as a seat for caffeine addicts.
Behind the till, two chaps worked away at a shiny machine - full of beans.
Although the coffee was exceptional - the true highlight of this cafe was the toilet. As you slid the door back to enter - the toilet seat popped up and relaxing spa music kicked into gear. Never have I enjoyed a leak more. The coffee - to die for!
Coffees in hand - a short walk led us to the entrance of the Kinkaku-Ju temple. Sat above a lake and capped by a gold roof - this Temple was a real jewel. The building was mirrored in the lake making it incredibly difficult not to get the selfie stick out - despite the signs saying they were not allowed. Call us rebels - the shot was worth it! A short walk takes you around the building, giving you views from all angles, before your 500 yen tour is drawn to an abrupt halt. If I came again - I’d pay the money - you can almost feel the sense of calm as you glide around the lake.
I think I’d describe the area like Dorking. Nice enough and I can see why people live there - but once you’ve seen the large chicken - you’ve seen it all. (If you’ve never seen it - the chicken in Dorking is worth a visit!) a short bus ride took us to another bus terminal where we had to change from one bus to another. This provided yet more viewing of bizzare Japanese customs. Like at airports where planes are ushered into their gates by men with light savers - these guys do the same but for buses! I mean I can get it if you have a plane to manoeuvre - but cmon lads - we are only parking a bus!
The 5 minute wait seemed to fly by - entertained by the traffic control men and the ‘Pilots’ plotting their routes and donning their drivers hats. The 11 arrived bound for the Bamboo Forest. A short ride and we were kicked out where we expected. A trail takes you through thick bamboo, towering high into the skies. If it wasn’t for the endless stream of walkers - you could imagine Pandas chewing on some leaves here. The scale was incredibly impressive and warrants the complex bus itinerary to reach the destination!
Not only is the forest simply stunning - so too are the surrounding areas of Arishyma. The river here is wide and the water gushing - providing dramatic landscapes to soak up. Beside the river, quaint shops stock specialist souvenirs, paper lamps, china dolls and chop sticks to appease even the most fussy of consumers. In addition, street food vendors supplying Japanese favourites Like Tempura - something we had to try.
With the taste of Tempura still lingering on the tongue, Arabica coffee was the perfect recipe to rid the oil! Adjacent to the river and glass fronted, the small White House that is Arabica coffee has obviously made quite a reputation for itself. As we approached it - the queue of people stretched around the corner. So long, a security guard was on hand to direct new joiners to the queue and keep waiters out of harms way. The system is unique but efficient. You place an order and get a number - much like McDonalds but a little classier. In fact, it is exactly the same! The only difference you then go back outside and join the single file line - patiently waiting to reach the front. When you do - like magic the coffee is waiting - perfectly warm and delicately finished by their barista. I have to say - the Latte was just perfect. The milk warm and like silk - the beans smooth and aromatic.
Luckily I asked for it to take away - the only seat in the house occupies a charge of 1000 yen per half hour. Amazing what exclusive, luxury can do - the place was an instagram Mecca...yes, we joined the party!
With limited time remaining before heading out of town - one last temple remained unvisited! Of course, we could not leave without seeing this beauty and the trusty Lonely Planet suggested visiting early doors. With the alarm ringing at 0700, we opted for bikes to get us to the temple doors as early as possible. Japanese bikes are another interesting experience. The locks are built in to the frame and wrap around the wheel. Likewise, when it comes to choosing a parking spot it is like being in Knightsbridge in December. Choose the wrong spot and eye up a ticket or say bye to the bike. Japanese biking law enforcers that bikes may only be deposited in areas which are clearly labelled as bike parking bays. Not only that, but some come with a heavy price tag - 1800 yen in some areas of downtown!!
With the bikes parked securely in their safe parking bays - we had arrived at the Fushimi-Inari Taisha Temple. This one was worth the wait and the early get up. Hoards of people had already started penetrating the entrances and the time had not even ticked past 8:30. The temple stood proudly, glowing in the early morning sun. Bright orange and with ritual practice occurring - this place had a real authentic feel to it.
Behind the main temple - the Mountain walkway begins - which takes 30 minutes to complete. A somewhat strenuous hike - involving numerous steps and awesome views - this was a real highlight of our time in Kyoto. The signature piece of this temple is found in the orange archways - each depicting their own Buddhist message. Japanese symbols caked the pillars as Monkeys play in the neighbouring forest. The bright orange arches twist and turn, captivating your eyes like an optical illusion. We joined the masses - posing for the perfect shot which best showed off the beauty of this place. I think we may have nailed it! If you come to Japan and don’t visit this place - you may as well not have bothered! This screamed Japanese culture and amazed us with its architectural brilliance. Visit it.
Not many cities other than New York’s Central Station, have train stations which entice tourists for reasons other than travel. Ok, I hear ya - Kong’s Cross St Pancreas is pretty epic too! But the Kyoto station had a fascinating architecture which, unless someone wants to buy me a train ticket to somewhere exciting - I don’t think can be bettered anywhere in the world. Glass walkways, designed to look like trains leaving tunnels, hang high above the main arrivals hall.
Escalators act like supporting beams sending passengers into orbit, whilst rolling stair cases take the athletic to the sky terrace for aerial views of the surrounds. Functional, simplistic and inspiring - this arty station is a twenty-first century icon of futuristic travel. Not only does Japan nail everything to do with trains - this station suggests they could just be leading the way in terms of terminal buildings as well. Darlington has some way to go!
If Temples, culture and authentic Japanese beauty is what you are after - Kyoto won’t disappoint.