Chic, eclectic and gritty: Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires:

Vibrant, colourful, eclectic and eccentric. This city tickles a number of senses and fills your mind with a sense of pride, happiness and excitement. It is a city of juxtaposition – from economics to pace. One minute you’ll be racing through stunt like traffic, fearing for your life To the next – waiting patiently for a simple order in a cafe or for a coke to be poured delicately into a glass. Similarly, economically this city, like so many in the third world has a stark contrast between the Uber wealthy gated communities and stale Puerto Madero-esk environments – to the unbecoming, harsh neck of the woods like the outskirts of La Boca. 

But it was that which makes this vibrant city exciting. Every corner you turn seems to throw up a different array of architecture, a unique smell and a change in population. A constant – beeping cars and the sound of regaton and Hispanic music flooding out of Smokey cafes and bars. At night – this place seems to come alive – people start to emerge from every crevasse and bars start to pump up their music. The traffic dies down and the lights get brighter, people here certainly know how to party long into the night. 

If you are keen to stay on your toes and be immersed in vibrancy – this place is a winner. 

Our personal Experience and Top Tips:

How to get around:

The subway is an experience – you should try it. It is similar to that of the NYC subway or the Tube in London. People clammer for space and the less fortunate fight for your attention for any spare pesos in your pocket. We certainly were entertained by fairly average musical interludes and offered hand made cakes a handful of times. Yet, for the experience, you also get around the city in the most economic fashion – both time and on the wallet. One journey costs you 19 pesos – and the city is well covered. 

Next up is Uber – seems to be taking over the world right! But in BA – Uber felt pretty stealthy. Uber is not yet legal in the city – so you have to pretend you are being picked up by a friend – jump in the front and make sure you say Tarjeta – don’t get caught out and pay twice…happens to the best of us! We took Uber’s everywhere and the drivers will share their pride and stories with you! A slightly better performance than those witnessed on the subways is watching them swerve and wieve in and out of fast moving traffic. Buckle up and enjoy the ride. – a ten minute journey will cost you 2/3 quid! 

What to see:

Ok so the city is pretty vast and getting around seems to take a bit of time – but if you like a walk – you won’t be disappointed in this city. Walking allowed us to navigate from one Bario to the next – taking in everything as we went. 

Start with a little trip to Recreo Cemetery A slightly bizarre place but one which illuminates Argentina’s rich history and strong Christian routes. Take an hour or so to meander between the tomb stones and don’t be scared to peer into them – you see some weird and wonderful things. A highlight is the grave of Evita Perdon – the Diana equivalent in Argentina from what I can ascertain. 

Next up – grab a drink in the outdoor bars near recreo – in the evening the place comes alive and it is a nice way to pick the mood straight back up to where it needs to be having walked around a cemetery. 

The Congress building is worth a look – it is very grand and you can get some great photos from the park just in front of it. This is also a cool part of town to walk through and admire the fountains and soak in the local atmosphere. 

Walking from there – head towards the presidential palace and the Placa de Mayo – a wonderful part of town which feels very much like the heart of this city. This was the epicenter and it definitely felt as though everything was filtering into this focal point. If you are lucky – catch the changing of the guard whilst you are here. The Argentine army have a sumptuously strange mode of marching – see it to believe it. 

Then We stepped inside the church of St Martin in the north west corner of the square – pretty cool to think the Pope led his services from the pulpit not that long ago. 

Leaving Plaza del Mayo – I would highly recommend a stroll into St Elmo. St Elmo is thick with history and the quirky stores which line the narrow, cobbled streets will keep you entertained for hours. When the time comes to recharge and taste some local cuisine – look no further than the indoor food market at ST Elmo. The choice is off the charts and the empanadas on the way in are delicious. You’ll thank me! 

La Boca is a really awesome place. You can almost feel the culture and the vibrancy as you wieve through markets and the colour slapped walls. A highlight Here is the awesome street art as well as the local tango dancers! 

From here make sure you get a taxi – word on the street is that the surrounding areas are a little sketchy – head to Puerto Madero. Incredible how the environment can change in such a small distance. This is like the Canary Wharf of the city. Spectated physically by the river and metaphorically in every sense of the word. Nonetheless, a little stroll along the promenade and a drink in a cafe on the river bank is a nice way to spend an afternoon.

Then head to Palermo for the evening – the choice of bars and restaurants is staggering. Stumble across one you fancy and you won’t be disappointed, whatever the time of day. Brekkies at Serendipity, Lab, Arlos and the Juice Up bars are all worth a visit. The coffee culture is seemingly exploding in Buenos Aires and of you like your coffee you will be spoilt for choice. Lab was my favourite – the cafe has an awesome vibe and the lattes come perfectly smooth and just the right temperature. For medialunas and pastries – look no further than Don Blanco – their fridge of goodies gets you salivating and their bakery section is awash with ridiculously tempting offerings. My eyes were certainly bigger than my stomach, but you can always take away! 

The shops in Palermo are fun to walk around and they are punctuated with cool restaurants serving up the freshest home made pastas and local dishes. Whichever restaurant you stumble into will leave you wanting more. 

Then – in the evening we went to Vita – a hidden gem in this vibrant part of town. Once you have made your way through the rigerous security – being patted down by a rather rotund woman – you push through large red curtains and you are met with a beautiful floor to ceiling bar of spirts – akin to something of oceans eleven or casino royale! Waiters serve up tapas between 7-9 and then the music gets louder and the room gets fuller. BAs swankiest youngsters to take to the dance floor and party long into the night. Drinks aren’t cheap but the experience is worth getting stuck in to!