Africa - From Cost to Coast: Floating with hippos in the Ocovango Delta

Since the age of 12 the Ocovango Delta has always appealed. Be it for the rhythmical name or the sense of adventure, the thought of touching down in this UNESCO World Heritage location filled me with excitement. As we approach, the land becomes drier and drier - our wheels slipping and sinking in deep sands. Dust begins to collect on our clothes and the camera begins to blur without a wipe. This is not what I had in mind. I had always thought of the delta as a place rich in fertile grounds, flourishing with lush green vegetation and long grasslands for hiding wild cats. However, this for vast swathes of the delta was not the case. Yet again on this African road trip - dried up river beds had become the norm and much of the vegetation resembled a Greyish, brown color as opposed to the luscious green anticipated.

However, the deeper we got into the delta, the closer we got to the Zambezi - the greener the land became. Trees and shrubs clinged to the descending waters as reeds poked through the lapping waters. On the muddy banks, local communities bathed their clothes and filled bottles for drinking amid the oppressing heat. Others watched on, perched on their Mocoros (a purpose built canoe). As we pull in, a group come to greet us to collect our luggage, tents and overnight supplies. Themix welcomes us aboard and begins to pole us into the depths of this incredible slice of planet earth.

As he meanders through deep reed bushes and Lilly ponds, birds swoop above and elephants come to drink. Hippos moan and crocodiles sleep on the river banks. The sound of wildlife fills our ears, akin to a spa soundtrack. The only interrupting noise the one of the pole entering the water - splashing gently on entry. As the reed bushes tickle your arms, you are fully immersed in nature. You cannot help but smile and feel grateful for being alive.

After an hour or so, the Mocoroe is wedged onto an island bank. Our equipment unloaded and the next stop on our itinerary introduced. Beneath a small tree, we erect our tent before the heat of the midday sun kicks in. Hornbills use the surrounding areas as runways - landing and taking off with frequent regularity. Once we set up - it is us and nature for 24 hours. A small shallow pond is all there is to cool down - with others housing Hippos and Crocs - despite their inviting appearance in the awe altering heat.

It isn’t long before we had visitors. A heard of elephants came through our ‘camp’. Mothers and babies fed on the nearby foliage as we looked on amazed. There was nothing to protect us other than speed and stamina at this point. It was us and these wild creatures - at least for the next few hours. We stood in awe, listening intently to each and every one of their movements. Eventually, they continued their journey through the bush to the near by water. Soaking themselves in the water - a refreshing wash at the end of another 18 hour feed!

With that, we geared up for a little explore into the bush by foot. As we moved between logs and trees, our eyes were peeled for moving objects. Every ridge we climbed a new vista, a new flat expanse to look out on. Each time we were fortunate to see springbok dash and elephant drink. The noise of our footsteps rudely interrupted the feeding Kudu, who made quickly for the nearby trees - starring back with some intent whilst the buffalo casually rested under the trees behind as we enjoyed the red sun slipping into the next day.

As darkness closed in, amidst the sound of squeaking insects and the rustling of nearby bushes - the camp fire began to roar and the stars shone brighter. The local polers - the only others on the island with us came to sing around the camp site - the only light that of the stars and flames.

Climbing into the tent the groans of hippos and snorting elephants provided the background noise. All that was there to protect you from the wild - a thin shred of fabric and a mosquito net. Here is to camping wild style.