Africa - From Coast to Cost: Where the desert rolls into the ocean

We are beginning to get used to driving in this beautiful country. The truck will shudder and shake. You soon become immune to the sound of stones hitting the undercarriage. And, when you see a fellow car - you grin unconsciously. Never again will I complain of traffic in the UK. The reassurance it gives is not to be taken lightly!

Today we stuck Swakopmund into the GPS, Tracks for Africa system. A four hour trip promising stretches of tarmac.

The first part of the journey took us on a windy rocky path to the top of a mountain pass. Great boulders perched on the top of Rocky Mountains - akin to scenes from the Lion King. Beneath and to the horizon, desert spanned as far as we could see. Birds rested on dry trees and dassies took for cover as our engine rattled to the top of the hill. Every 15km or so, signs warned of dips in the road as we passed through another dried up river or stream. The effects of climate change as real as ever in the land which has not seen rain for three years.

With our 4x4 engaged, we crawled down the back side of the pass - in the distance heat haze blurred our vision. The flat plains of the desert once again taking centre stage, the mountains now very much a thing of the past. As we descend down from the mountain pass, the road becomes a little more manageable. The rutts a little more consistent at least.

Heat haze is replaced with the view of fog on the horizon. Small Beatles and bugs are buzzing around the car and the trees seem to have more life, gifted moisture from the incoming fog.

As we cruise through the Tropic of Capricorn - the road widens and the truck begins to speed through this barren landscape that is Namibia. The occasional salt truck passes - the driver giving a wide smile and the acknowledging nod of approval and welcome to his land.

After three or so hours, having passed through immense scenery - we seem to be nearing the infamous Swakopmund. Yellow sand dunes draw our attention as vast heaps of sand roll into the Atlantic Ocean.

The wind blows off the top of the dune, where locals are frying the catch of the day in the back of their truck, and children flip off burnt out tyres. The road is balanced between the dunes - the desert to the right, the ocean to the left. For the first, and possibly the last time, we were afforded the opportunity to see desert and ocean in the same glance. Truly remarkable.

A few mesmerising miles later, we pulled into Swakopmund. A colonial town, conquered and developed by the Germans. Architecturally quaint and bustling in comparison with much of the land we had previously enjoyed - this coastal town is our home for the next few days.

The jetty entices tourists and with it, locals desperate to make a quick buck selling miniature safari animals and African attire. None of them pushy. All of them happy. In their background, the ocean crashes against the sandy beach whilst locals walk the coastal path. Seals patrol the shore as birds float above the beach looking to make their daily catch.

Set back from the coast - tourist shops and cafes line the streets. All selling the same tat - only presented slightly differently. Tour operators advertise adventure tours into the dunes and into the sky - whilst for the more adventurous Skydives are unrivalled in this neck of the woods.

After the dusty roads of the desert, the solitary existence of the dunes and the stifling heat, the cool, frequented streets of Swakop provides a coastal retreat which is just what was on order. What’s more the pretty town is only half of the allure - where else will you see desert rolling into one of the worlds roughest oceans?

Our top tips and Highlights:

What to see and do:

There is not a huge amount to do here in Swakop - after all it is only really a small town. But for a few tips - this is what we would suggest:

Start with a coastal stroll or run. There is an awesome path which is well lit and runs parallel to the beach. It is a great way to see the wildlife in the sea and get a sense of Swakopmunds appeal to Windhoek’s wealthy holiday makers. We ran to the end and back which is a 9 mile round trip. You can hire bikes to do the same.

Walking round the town is also nice. Dedicate a few hours to strolling around the quaint streets and getting lost in the small tourist shops. A lot of the stores sell the same tat but if you get into one you like - enjoy admiring some of the fine jewelry and ornaments.

Desert tours are a must here to get a sense of the beauty. You can drive yourself into the dunes or alternatively there are a number of advertised tours. The little 5 tour was well reviewed and we met some people who said it was awesome.

If your budget allows - jump in a plane with soussoufly and head up to get a birds eye view of the skeleton coast and the dunes. There is no better sight..

Where to eat and drink:

If like us you are camping there is nothing better than grilling some fresh fish on the brai! Alternatively there are a number of cool restaurants and bars catering for tourists if you can’t be bothered to cook!!

Along the sea front - Jetty is well attended by tourists and offer awesome views of the sea front and town. Parking here is easy and there are a gaggle of locals keen to take care of your car. Pay them $5 to keep it safe / keep them happy!

A little further down the sea front after the arts and crafts market - there are a number of food stalls. One sells fresh seafood wraps and bites! It smells amazing and is amazing. Make sure you swing by here. It is cash only but ATMs are all over the town.

For a coffee, if you like us love your coffee, head to Krisjan for a coffee. The atmosphere is awesome, the people super friendly and they have WIFI which is very uncommon we have found!