Africa - From Coast to Coast: The Sandy Tracks to Soussvlei

The time etched on the dashboard of the Toyota Hilux reads 08:20. The sun still low in the sky, yet the temperature gauge sitting at a stifling 32 degrees. As we crawl out of this ‘city’ we take stock of our supplies: the truck stocked up to the gills with water, fuel, tools and desert kit. All we could possibly need it seems.

Tarmac soon gives way for rough gravel tracks - so dry that dust billows behind the load bearing truck, our tent flapping on the roof. After 100 kilometres or so, the landscape becomes increasingly desolate. Shrubs are desperately clinging on to life in the blistering heat, whilst springbok somehow manage to find shelter under dead wood and twigs, formerly known as trees.

Hours pass, the time now etched on the small clock 10:47 and still not a soul has been seen. It is very much us, the odd goat and the desert. It is incredible to experience such isolation. You long for the smile of a fellow human. The reassuring nod of a local. Some sign of life - other than amazingly well adapted fauna and flora. As we cruise at a slow 65km/h through moon like landscapes, bouncing through dried up river beds - it is hard not to let your mind wander...what if we break down? What do we do if we get a puncture? We have two spare tyres on the back - but can I actually change a tyre in this heat?

Another few hours pass on this windy road before we reach a junction. Some excitement as we are forced to make a turn. Hopeful it will provide the necessary resources we now so desperately require. The fuel beginning to empty and the 3, 5litre bottles of water rapidly depleting.

Along this stretch we start to pass the odd local farmer, walking between shack and farm. Seldom have I ever seen such isolation and deprived way of living. As we race past, throwing dust in their dry eyes - it makes you appreciate more than ever the ease with which we switch on a light, turn a tap and jump on a bus. None of these commodities are available to these poor folk.

10 km out from our destination and the scenery began to develop on the horizon. The shrubby desert seemed to redden. The dust migrated to a deep orange sand. The road softened and the bumps became more manageable. With the car caked in grey dust - it was soon to take on a teddy glow as we began to drift on deep sand roads.

After 6 hours, we found ourselves parked up at the Sesriem Camp. Namibian locals welcomed us warmly to their town - smiles beaming from ear to ear. Every local seemingly a worker on this relatively small camp. Every one - from the cleaners, to the safari guides so content. So happy to welcome us to their home. It is in this moment I think to myself - how can they sit so happily? How can they be so content with so little? They have no gadgets, limited access to internet, a shop with abysmal supplies and they live so isolated from the rest of the world. What’s worse - they meet tourists every day with so much more. With so much more opportunity. With the ability to see the world. A world that will scarcely be available to them. The appreciation, the gratitude it makes you feel is uncanny. Almost cathartic.

Having settled, stocked up with fuel and supplies we headed into the Soussuvlei national park for sunset. 45 km in from the gate a perfectly formed dune, smooth as butter lies on the left of the road. With only the marks of wind eroding it’s face, we decided to climb to its summit - planting our own erosive tracks in its leeward face. A 15 minute hike with the warm sand swallowing our feet, we arrived at the top just in time to see the sun rest for yet another day.

The morning after - the truck ready and rearing we ploughed in further into the Soussvlei national park to visit Deadvlei. As you battle through the baking dry heat, over dunes and through desert shrubs you reach one of the most fascinating geographical features on the planet. Your eyes are drawn to a white salt pan, surrounded by deep red dunes - which plays host to a number of dark black trees. As the time passes, the sweat drips from your brow and breathing becomes increasingly hard. It is all worth it to see what has to be one of the worlds most impressive sights.

The first leg of our coast to coast adventure ticked off. The richest of continents delivering on every level.

Our tips and Highlights.

How to get there:

Self drive or tour are your two options. Group tours head on weekly or two weekly trips from Windhoek and include all your meals and some activities. But you are doing it with others. Absolute Africa and Namibia Travel are two companies we passed in campsites.

Self drive for us is a winner - we chose to do this so that we had a little more flexibility. You can stop where you want and move at your own pace. Ok, so when you are bouncing along shrapnel and gravel roads your mind will be roaming and your heart pounding - especially with the lack of support around - but the scenery is stunning and it is all part of the adventure. Avis and Hertz rent camping vehicles or you can buy them from bushlore on a buy back basis. We went with a company called Cardboard box travel - we cannot recommend them enough. They help with planning your route and they give brand new cars with exemplary equipment.

Whatever you do make sure you pay the money for a decent vehicle...you do not want to be caught short here!

Where to go:

On this leg - there really is only one route. Start off early to make sure you have plenty of day light to travel in. You can probably do the journey in 4-5 hours but we stopped regularly to take photos and take it all in.

Make sure on your way out of Windhoek you stock up with all you need. Outside of the main city there really is very little. Towns on a map may be one or two shacks if that - don’t think you’ll be stumbling across any Sainsbury’s local type affairs. We went to Pick and Pay which has a massive stock. We got lots of rice, pasta and canned fruit and veg...stuff that will last in 30 degree heat sweating in the back of a car!

We also had the luxury of a fridge in our truck so we got some veg and a bit of meat. It is worth getting fore wood and some matches to make fires everywhere you stay! It will be way cheaper here than in the camps.

Where to stay:

If like us you have a day to take stock and get your supplies together in Windhoek - we stayed at Windhoek Garden Guesthouse. A sumptuous little spot in the heart of town with a pool and great rooms. We would recommend basing yourself here!

When you get to Soussvlei the only place to stay is 60km away in Sesriem - a town seemingly set up to cater for tourists heading to the national park. There are loads of lodges and camps around here.

We stayed inside the gates of the park at Sesriem Camp to ensure we could be in the gates for sunrise and sunset. This is definitely worth it if you can get in. The pitches are hard to get but essential if you want to see the dunes at this time. Book in advance to not miss out. It is definitely worth it because the colour of the dunes is drastically different and watching the sunrise whilst sipping your morning coffee is a magical moment!