Africa - From Coast to Coast: The bridge over no mans land and political turmoil
- LifeBeyondLondon
- Oct 2, 2019
- 3 min read

From Chobe National Park where wild cats roam free, our wheels continued to roll towards the north east. The next border point we came to was deep in the Kalahari, our entry point for Zimbabwe.
Politically challenged and economically unstable, Zimbabwe has gone from being the bread basket of Africa to the begging basket of this great continent. Local currency is solely an artefact in these parts, whilst ATMs dispense little more than the time. Locals suffer being plunged into darkness for nothing shy of 13 hours of the day, as load shedding plays its role in negotiating the constant struggles. The frustrations of living in this beautiful nation has taken its toll - forcing thousands of Zim nationals to look for pastures new.

Nonetheless, as we rolled through Zimbabwe for the first time, the flag drooped at half mast in memory of the late Mugabe, the sense of difference was palpable. Economic instability and political discontent are papered over by welcoming smiles and tourist vans buzzing around on every street corner. Yet one does not need to dig too deep before it soon becomes apparent. Street vendors beg to sell you old Zimbabwean dollars - a note of 200 Billion - trucks stall at the border waiting for paperwork to be cleared and flags are flown in fear rather than hung out of choice.

A 10km drive and we find ourselves in the middle of Vic Falls town - a plush collection of hotels, cafes and restaurants all doing their part to paper over the lack of development and structure in this part of the world. To the passer by, the excited tourist - living behind gated walls where lights shine all day and water runs hot - the sad state of this once booming land is all too well separated from reality.
Zimbabwe have done well, despite the political and economic turmoil, to cling on to the natural draw of Victoria Falls. Founded by the late great Dr Livingstone, who named the falls after our Queen, Victoria Falls cascades a phenomenal 110 meters, its gorge providing the perfect border between Zim and Zam. 20,000 cubic metres of water crash over the brittle basalt each second, the spray playing with the suns rays to brush a rainbow across no mans land. This is quite some sight to behold.

From cliff tops and loose boulders, tourists tip toe to take the finest shot. In the height of the midday sun - rain jackets hang on Chinese bodies, protecting cannons and nikons from the spray. Amongst dry, arid landscape, jungle grows - owing to the year round Zambezi irrigation system, with leafy branches swaying in the wind.

Standing mesmerized by the sheer power of these immense falls - the sky above is littered with small aircraft and the constant to and fro of helicopters - providing the wealthy with bird eye views. On the ground and all around, animals come to the river to bathe and drink. Warthog battle through the thick grass, whilst locals cower in the shade of the elephant. Birds swoop in the spray as insects climb the bobao trees.


For nature viewers there is nothing quite like Vic Falls. It encapsulates all that our planet has to offer. From flora to fauna, desert to jungle - landscapes, vegetation and animals come together here alongside one of the most impressive natural phenomena.

In spite of the beauty that this great feature holds, the drying up of the Zambian river is yet another reminder that our planet is in a fragile state. Where once waters flowed ferociously, now tourists are greeted only with cliff walls and stained basalt. Only one’s imagination can place water back on these hills. Water in this River has reduced by 60% since this time last year leading to indisputable ramifications for populations and wildlife in the Zambezi basin.

in essence, the story mirrors that of much of southern africa - the planet is drying. Bore holes are having to get deeper. People and animals are having to travel further to sustain their lifestyles and adapt to their new provisions. Fatally, the world renowned Victoria Falls is retreating. the falls are depleting. Yes there are still incredible views of crashing water, thundering down the vast heights - but I can only imagine what this place must have looked like when water volumes were at their peak, when we had not interfered with nature’s course.

If nothing else - Victoria Falls has made me understand a little easier why Zimbabweans and Zambians are plunged into darkness for virtually every hour of the day. Resources too are coming to the end of their tether with no water to power their reliant hydro-electric dams. It is not merely the water which our planet is having to say goodbye to In these parts.
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