Africa - From Coast to Coast: Exploring the greatest spot on Earth
- LifeBeyondLondon
- Sep 18, 2019
- 4 min read

Today we left behind Swakop - having made full use of the free WIFI, the supermarkets and fuel stations. It was not long before the feeling of normality and the smooth tarmac ran out and we found ourselves turning onto yet another unpopulated sand track. The few traces of previous vehicles, barely visible in the baking sand. Our estimated time of arrival - a handsome 6 hours.
Hour by hour the environment became more wild. The truck became caked in increasing amounts of dust and the air con unit became depressingly less effective. But outside, the desert continued to throw up ridiculous scenery - awash with Oryx and Springbok dashing between dried out trees.

When the 6 hours had passed racing alongside desperate children trying to beg for food and sell their mothers products, we could not believe our eyes. Great boulders of rock stuck out of the flat plain in beautiful Spitzkoppe. Vast slabs of basalt hung precariously on the sides of mountains and birds swooped through arches, created over many years of intense erosion.

We explored each and every crevasse of the rock, climbing to get the best perspective of this out-worldly landscape. As we jumped from rock to rock, desert rats and honey badgers dashed around - freeing up more space for us to explore. Every peak we reached, each boulder we successfully navigated, provided yet another spectacular view - albeit immensely aware of the unbelievably dry rock beneath us. Drought is a rather alien concept to those living in Britain. But these lands are desperate for even a drop. You take it for granted when it falls with such regularity on your own shores.

The red glow of the African sun sets these awesome pieces of geology alight and has the ability to captivate you for hours. Not only is the colour extraordinary but the pure isolation and silence that Spitzkoppe provides is unrivalled anywhere on the planet. The sole activist here is a hungry bird - full of song or the sound of the gushing wind creeping through natural troughs carved out by gusts before.

Whilst nature is the real appeal of Spitzkoppe, so to the historical Bushmen Art, etched into the hidden boulders. High up in the caves of this great place lie some of Africa’s oldest bushmen art - still so beautifully presented and visible. As the local guide tells stories of hunter gatherer communities, it is not hard to see how this area was once home to these natives. Caves provide shelter, the high boulders offer exemplary viewpoints for game and the local springs offer water points for those in thirst.

Once the sun sets on this great expanse - nature falls time on your ability to roam free between the rocks. By now, every rock has been explored and you have squeezed through every fracture that will allow.


All that is left is to lift the tent and experience one of the most peaceful camps on offer on the planet. Wherelse is the milky way so bright it rivals the moon. The only noise in this site, that of your own mind. Kick back, relax and enjoy being at one with one of the most magical places on earth: Spitzkoppe.

Our Tips and Highlights:
What to do:
Give yourself three to four hours and get lost exploring these boulders. They take your breath away and allow you to see views which will truly inspire. There are some trails you can follow but we enjoyed just exploring our own rocks at our own pace.

Some of the rocks require you to take a guide. We did this at sunset to visit Bushmans Paradise - where the rock art is. We were lucky enough to have Eddie a local guide who really knew his stuff - make sure you give them a tip to take you up. We paid 200 for the two of us..pretty reasonable for an hours hike.

make sure you go to the bridge - the big arch in the rock at sunset. The view from the top of the sun setting on the rocks is unreal as is the sight of the suns rays flying through the arch. Take a beer with you and enjoy.

When you are done in the park - there is a school close to the entrance on the main road. We stopped by in here. It is amazing to see how kids learn in this environment and to see how little they have. If nothing else - it will give you some perspective.

Where to stay:
There are a few camps and lodges around the park - go online and see which one you like best.
We we stayed in the park which we cannot recommend highly enough. The camp is so isolated and all the pitches are a good 500 metres away so you feel totally alone. Each pitch has its own toilet - but there is no running water on the site. They have not had rain for 8 years here, so water is a premium. The shower block is a long way from the pitches but that is part of the beauty. They are well equipped and very clean when you do decide to use them.

Make sure you get here early though as they don’t give you a camp - you go and chose. The best spots get snapped up soon! We stayed at Dassie - which was phenomenal.
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