A cacophony of colour clinging to the hills: Valparaiso

Valparaiso and Viña del mar:

Throw a gaggle of colourful buildings, dangled delicately to the side of a steep hilled bay, gushing towards the breaking waves of the pacific. Wide span birds dotting the sky and snow capped mountains providing the horizon. Welcome to Valparaiso - an urban jungle full of character is your home for a few days.

The bus settles at the bus terminal in the city centre, tattooed with local hostels and home stays vying for your custom. Fruit vendors battle for space and the noise of passengers being called to their coaches for travel, the overriding sound. People are bustling around and the fast paced, young and hip culture of this place is beginning to come through.

From here - strap in for the ride up into the hills. A world away from the clammer and noise of the city centre. The wheels screech and the clutch burns to get you up into the clouds - where houses are strapped to the hill in any which way and where cafes and trendy art stores are as frequent as the stray dogs...and believe me their are a lot of stray dogs.

Whatever mode of transport you decide to take - be it rickety funiculars, car or bus you will soon realise - this town is designed to be explored by foot. As you drag your feet up the steep slopes and countless steps - every corner provides another picture perfect opportunity. The dazzling colours contrasted against the pristine sky and the rolling horizon. Anyone who is anyone in the world of street art seems to have contributed to the outdoor art gallery. Even the graffiti here looks classy and gets you pondering.

Despite the lack of order to this place, there is somehow some form of pristine organisation to the chaos. The roads are clean. The stray dogs have kennels. The restaurants and cafes charge high prices - but are full. This grungy area has a certain appeal to the wealthy elite. To the arty chic. To the young and hip.

Yet - in the same breath - the disorder has an attraction for those at the bottom of society. Those reliant on booze and tied to drugs. The women who is half way through the litre of corona at 11:03 and the man screaming at a wall in broad daylight. Valparaiso is the place where anything goes. Anyone is accepted. But only some get to enjoy the fruits from all the trees. Others just get to pass their time - caught up in the chaos which has been created.

This little place has it all and will fill you full of adventurous spirit...as long as your knees can take the strain.

Our highlights and top tips:

How to get there and around:

Travelling here by bus is easy. We came over the Andes from Mendoza with Andersmar buses. Super comfy and a great service. From Chile - Pullman and Turbus offer regular services from near by cities. Once you arrive - jump in an uber it is dirt cheap and the drivers are reliable. To go further afield around the city - Valparaiso Metro is around 1,300 pesos for a days travel. It scoots along the pacific coast and can drop you at some gorgeous beaches.

Places to eat and drink:

Coffee lover? This could be a cool place for you. Bokeh is a super cool place on the way up into the hills. Get the double cappuccino. There is also a nice cafe with a super view La Mandelana - any coffee in there will be a treat.

Fancy a little luxury - get on the rooftop of the hotel at the top of conception. A little sundowner here for sunset is a great place to be and the prices are reasonable.

For brekkie - Good morning Valparaiso was a good little find. Nice food and coffee refills was a welcome treat. Likewise, El Desayunar was a spot with a chilled vibe and a decent menu.

Must sees:

Ok so wall art is what you are here to see. It is some of the best in the world. Walk around conception and cerro Bellavista. There will be murals which make you stop and smile everywhere you go.

The Happy Hippies steps are really cool and make for a great photo. As does turning around and looking out over the sea.

A little further down the hill, head to the Brighton hotel which is at the top of the piano steps - a really awesome set of stairs which make for a great pic!

Make sure you watch the sunset from the top of Conception - a really beautiful view over the port and observing the sky change into multiple colours of pink will leave you overwhelmed.

The port is also worth a visit - there is a cool little market down there to look through some arts and crafts and the water makes for a pleasing change. As does the flat promenade on your knees!